One of the things that always gets my goat is the price some companies charge for dipole antennas. It’s not that they’re charging an outrageously large sum of money, and I certainly don’t begrudge them making a profit for their efforts. It’s just that if hams would just buy their own wire and parts, they would not only save money over the long run, but be encouraged to experiment with antennas. That’s what I started doing about ten years ago, and I’ve been very happy with the results.
One of the first things that I did was to purchase ten Budwig HQ-1 center insulators and ten HQ-2 end insulators. I purchased these directly from Budwig and saved some money doing so. I’ve made a bunch of antennas with these insulators, including several 40m/20m inverted vees for portable use (such as Field Day and special events), a 17m dipole, and a 10m loop antenna. Universal Radio now sells the set for $18.50.
These insulators are very well-made, and can easily be reused, too. I’m getting ready to purchase another ten sets as I’ve just about run out of my original supply.
There are a bunch of other center insulators on the market, including:
- The Alpha Delta Delta-C antenna hardware kit consists of a Delta-C Center Insulator, antenna connecting hardware, 1 SEP Arc-Plug™ static protector (installed in Delta-C) and 2 Delta-CIN end insulators. This is a little heavier-duty than the Budwig insulators, but it costs more, too ($30 at Universal Radio). Unless you’re going to be running a kW, I don’t see the need to spend nearly twice as much money on these insulators.
- The TEN-TEC ACRO-BAT Antenna Connector & Hanger is an interesting product. Unlike the Budwig and Alpha-Delta insulators, this product does not have an SO-239. Instead, this insulator clamps over the coax and antenna wire, and in doing so, provides strain relief. I haven’t tried this one, but it seems like a nice design. The cost is $10, directly from TEN-TEC or from Universal Radio.<?li>
- The Unadilla W2AU ANsulator is made from PCV tubing and include eyelets for terminating the antenna wire and for supporting the insulator in the middle. For $15, I think I’d rather have the Budwig insulator. Also, you should be able to make one of these insulators for less than 15 bucks.
- The Hy-Gain C-1C Center Insulator has a screw for tightening down the antenna wire, so you don’t have to do any soldering, but overall, I don’t think I like the looks of this model. And, at 30 bucks, it seems kind of pricey.
- The W8AMZ Dipole Antenna Starter Kit comes a center insulator made from PVC pipe, similar to the Unadilla W2AU ANsulator and two end insulators. It costs $18.
If none of these strikes your fancy, you can always make your own. WP4AOH has some very good instructions on how to do this using PVC pipe and fasteners that you can find at your local hardware store. Whatever route you take, I encourage you to keep several on hand and enough antenna wire and coax to complete the antenna. You never know when the urge will strike you to build an antenna, and if you don’t have the parts you’ve missed an opportunity to do some experimenting.
If you’re using a center insulator other than the ones I’ve mentioned above, please leave a comment below and let us know how you like it.
Dave, N8SBE says
I use the Budwig center insulators on my 6-band quad, and have been very happy with them. I use the top center hole for strain relief using UV-resistant rope to string all the center insulators inline. This also cuts down on ‘wind whip’ which has actually broken two PL-259’s by breaking out the back of the shell (they aren’t all one piece — surprise!).
Mark K8MSH says
Another that should be on you list is the DX Engineering Center-T/ end insulator kit. ($24)
It’s lightweight, doesn’t require soldering, and I especially like the adjustable end insulators–simple, yet effective. For coax feed, it’s simple enough to make your own pigtail with the included crimp rings and your own PL-259/coax.
Hal Mandel says
I am interested in devising a way to use a length of wire that is to begin, one-half of an open wire feeder, and have it transition to the dipole leg, and, of course, doing it all over with the other leg, and here’s why: The wire scooped up for this 160m dipole is 12AWG, U-V resistant, black insulation called XHHW-2. It is comprised of seven strands of hard-drawn copper and is very robust. Is there a way to get it through the center dog bone insulator with the parallel feedline looped OVER the dogbone and then somehow though the eyelets, both secure in holding the dipole leg AND supporting the open wire feedline? Someone MUST have done this before, and avoided splicing, and I humbly ask all of you to wrack your brains for a solution.!
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