As I’ve mentioned in the past, my next book is going to be about getting on and operating HF. The working title is HF Demystified.
I go back and forth about how extensive this book should be, but at this point, I’m leaning towards it being as simple as possible, focusing on making sense of HF operation. This would include how to read interpret the spec sheets of HF transceivers. Here’s the first chapter. As always, comments are welcome…..Dan
Types of HF Radios
Just like carmakers make automobiles for nearly every budget and taste, amateur radio manufacturers make HF transceivers for nearly every budget and taste. I typically place HF radios in one of the following categories:
- Economy/Starter Radios. Economy/starter radios are designed either for the ham who is on a budget, or the newcomer to HF operations. They generally cost less than $1,000 and have fairly simple controls, although even radios in this category now come with digital signal processing, or DSP (see chapter xx for more information on DSP). Typically, the performance of these radios is not as good as more expensive radios, but when you’re just starting out, chances are good that you won’t really notice the difference. They may also not have some of the features, such as general coverage receive capability, that more expensive radios will have. Radios in this category include the Yaesu FT-450D, Icom IC-718, and the Alinco DX-SR8T.
- Mid-Range Radios. Radios in this class generally cost approximately $1,500, and offer more features and higher performance than less expensive radios. For example, radios in this category may have optional roofing filters, which improve receiver performance, where radios in the economy class do not. Radios in this class also have larger displays. This allows them to display a wide variety of information that makes operating the radio easier. They typically also have USB ports that enable you to easily connect them to a computer and interface with logging and radio-control programs. Radios in this category include the Icom IC-7410, Kenwood TS-590SG, TenTec Eagle, and the Yaesu FT-991.
- Top of the Line Radios. Radios in this category cost anywhere from $3,000 to more than $10,000. These radios offer the highest performance and the most features. Their displays, for example, typically feature a real-time spectrum scope, and most of them include a second receiver, so that you can monitor two frequencies at the same time. Radios in this category include the Elecraft K3S, Kenwood TS-990, Yaesu FTDX9000 series, and Icom IC-7851.
- Specialty Radios. There are many radios that do not easily fit into any of the three categories above. I call these specialty radios. They may, for example, be very small and designed for mobile or portable operation. The Elecraft KX-3 is an example of this type of radio. Many of the radios in this category are low-power, or QRP, radios. The FT-817ND, for example, has a maximum power output of only 5 W. Others cover the 2m and 70cm bands as well as well as the 160 โ 6m bands. The Icom IC-7100 is an example of this kind of radio.
- Kits. Heathkit may be a fading memory for us older hams, but you can still buy amateur radio transceiver kits, and, no, I’m not just talking about those little QRP kits that are really just toys (although they can be really fun toys). Elecraft, for example, still sells the K1 and K2.
Walter Underwood K6WRU says
I’m tempted add another category, “Modular Radios”. But I think Elecraft is the only company directly pursuing this. Otherwise, you are doing your own mix and match, with a QRP rig and a HARDROCK 50 amp, for example.
The Elecraft KX3 (no hyphen) is solidly in this space, with the matching 100W amplifier (KXPA100), and the PX3 panadapter.
The rig & amp combination is under $2500 with top of the line performance. But you can grab the 10W rig and hit the trail. Or you can mount the amp in your car and be 100W mobile or 10W portable. Or add a PX3 panadapter for another $500 (kit) for a full shack experience.
I’m not surprised that they have sold over 10,000 KX3’s in three and a half years.
Dan KB6NU says
You make a good point about “modular” radios. The K3S is actually modular, too. You can purchase a base configuration and then add modules, such as the second receiver, 100W amplifier, and antenna tuner later.
Walter Underwood K6WRU says
I do think that “trail radio” is a legitimate sub-category.
* Elecraft K1, KX1, KX3
* LNR FX-2
* Yaesu FT-817
* Icom IC-703 (out of production, want to buy mine?)
* Mountain Topper (http://www.lnrprecision.com/store/#!/Mountain-Topper/p/45010523)
* Hendricks PFR-3B (http://www.qrpkits.com/pfr3.html)
* Yaesu FT-857 or FT-897, I wouldn’t carry these on the trail but some people do
These are probably not “starter rigs” for most people, but they might be a “next rig”. Maybe you should have a “next rig” section with some directions: mobile, trail, contest, homebrew, …
Dan KB6NU says
Another good point. Thanks, Walt.
k8gu says
This is a great point! Especially the serious trail rigs like the MTR series are definitely not starter rigs although you have to be pretty savvy to get a hold of one of the kits…and then build it. Obviously, this is less of a factor with the LNR versions.
Rick K3IND says
To continue your automotive analogy, your first xciever should probably be a used one, and in many cases a free one. Track down the local ham radio club. Their club station will probably be better equipped than your home station will be for many years. The club station will also come with one or more helpful club members, often known as an ‘Elmer’ who will enjoy showing you how to use the equipment and guide you through your first few contacts (you don’t need a license to do this).
Finally, your first ‘rig’ could be a VHF/UHF handheld transciever costing as little as $50 new! You will still need an Elmer to help you set it up, but operating it will get you firmly into the local ham radio ‘scene’. Just like your first car, getting your first radio will be less expensive and more satisfying if Dad takes you out and lets you drive around the supermarket parking lot first !
KD0TLS Todd says
Categories aside, think in terms of the glaring differences between FM and HF operation. Things such as (effective use of) RF gain and AGC, filters, and a clarifier are completely foreign to FM operation and are controls that can easily baffle those new to HF rigs. Knowledge of how to use squelch, on the other hand, is basically useless on HF.
If you truly want to “demystify” HF operation, then put yourself in the place of someone that has only had experience with a programmed FM transceiver.
Don’t even assume that people know how to effectively tune in a station, when most consumer devices now operate on presets that auto-tune. If you start in the middle, then you are really only writing for people that already know what you are talking about.
Ed B. says
You gotta cover ugly construction, Manhattan, ME Pads, and Muppet if you want to attract makers. Oh EMRFD is a must. My old ARRL books showing radios to build, they got me in.
Ed KC8SBV